Oct. 3, 2010

Today marked the last day of the bicentennial celebration of Oktoberfest and guess who went? I did! Our group left at 9:40 in the morning and barely caught the train to Munich. Most of our group had to Stand the whole way there (around 1.5 hours), But Phil and I found some make shift seats. I was amazed by how many Germans possessed traditional garb! I’m talking about Dirndls and Lederhosen! We were also amazed by how many people you could fit on a local train to Munich! However this wasn’t nearly as insane as the metro to the festival location… We were all sardines and were forced to get uncomfortably comfortable with one another for about 5 minutes (thank the Lord!) The train spewed us out when we arrived at the awaited destination. There were millions of people there from all across Germany and all across the world. We could all already smell the beer, although it might have been psychological. And no we didn’t drink any. But we didn’t have too. There were enough people there drinking, to be sure! I witnessed one unfortunate throwing up. I felt bad for him. I actually went and got him some napkins. Fortunately his friend (who was sober) was there to help him and make sure that he wasn’t going to wear his spit for the rest of the day, it was roughly 3 o’clock! One thing I did enjoy tremendously was the abundance of awesome rides at Oktoberfest! Due to the price of each ride, however, I only went on one; Cyber Space! Kacey Kristen and I decided this was going to be the one ride of the day. Just watching it we got nervous. It was basically this giant swing (it held 8 people in roller coaster chairs, 4 and 4 back to back) that went back and forth getting higher and higher with each swing until you hung upside down for a moment and swung over to the other side! AHHHH! I am reliving it now! I had to hold my necklaces in my mouth because they were going to come off my head! You saw the most amazing view of the city when the whole platform you where sitting in began to turn on its own. On the next swing around it was almost as if you were doing a face-plant into the earth. It was crazy and totally worth the 7 euro! We also went to a beer tent just to see what was inside and oh my word! You could feel the energy of thousands and thousands of people crammed in here (but they surprisingly had enough room)! I don’t understand how they could be called tents! More like nations! We made a circuit around the main floor to take it all in. Insane I tell you! I can’t even imagine being part of the cooking staff or waiting on so many tables or constantly filling up beer classes! It would be never ending for sure! And there were a large number of these tents, all for major beer breweries in Germany. There were 14 to be exact. 
Immediately after the ride Kristen and I bought 1/2 meter long bratwurst! It was so stinkin’ good! The rest of the day at the fest I bought a few souvenirs, but my main purchase was food. I had a Nutella crepe, the wurst, some fresh squeezed juice blend, white chocolate covered strawberries and a well earned Sprite (if you know me, you’ll know that I really don’t like soda all that much, but there are a few that occasionally strike my fancy and Sprite is definitely one of them). After spending way too much money but having an unforgettable experience I was ready to “make like a baby and head out.” What a great day though. 

Sept. 26-31, 2010

I have had one of the most amazing weeks of my life! After learning that Copenhagen and Kobenhaven are in fact the same city I could find my route to Sweden on my map just to know where I was going. On the train I met a few new people and I am slowly discovering how much Germans love to talk politics… I also met the co-author of a book! His name was Richard Hammond. Him and his friend wrote the book “500 amazing getaways.” We were both going to Stockholm and our train was an hour behind schedule. We arrived in Copenhagen and had to make new connections. He was very kind, he bought me tea and introduced me to the “Daim” bar! It’s lake a Heath bar on crack! Anyways, when we finally arrived two hours late in Stockholm he made sure that I knew were my next connection was and said farewell. Richard, where ever you are, you were an Angel. I realized that I overpaid you for that book.. 12.99 pounds, not euro… Oh well, you bought me tea and you were very kind. 

I confidently traveled nearly 24 hours to stay with my long lost relatives, whom I had never met before, in Sweden. To my luck, they were the most lovely people you could ever imagine! My parents discovered that we had relatives when they visited Sweden (years ago) and were privileged to stay with them for the last two days of their stay in Sweden. I outdid them and stayed for 6 days! Haha! The house where the Gelin family (pronounced Ya-lin) spends their summer season in, well, it is in the woods. They live a few feet away from Sweden’s second or third largest lake that stretches from Stockholm to Uppsala. You can get a magnificent view of the lake form their balcony on the second floor of their house, or even the verandah where I had tea the first night that I was there and breakfast in every morning. Oh it was so gorgeous out there on the lake! To my luck it was the last week that they were staying in the summer house before they moved into the city (Uppsala) for the winter. So mornings were cold, especially when the shower was outside!

Every morning I would use the outhouse, then spend 15 minutes getting warm in their own personal sauna (or Bastü in Swedish) and after I would proceed to take a shower out in the wild! Exposed to all the elements! It really wasn’t that bad. I actually enjoyed it. Probably because the water was warm… If it was cold then it would be another story. However I didn’t shave my legs for the whole week (TMI I know…). Here, to the right is a picture of the Bastü and the shower. How would you like your own sauna? Isn’t that cool? 

The first morning I went on a mushroom hunt with Cissi (Benkt Ake’s daughter... My 3rd cousin? It’s so confusing). Only one other time in my life have I gone on a mushroom hunt. It was extremely unsuccessful. We roamed around in the woods for hours trying to find mushrooms that would kill us if we ate them. We didn’t find any. I felt like that rabbit trying so desperately to find Trix only to end with the same conclusion. So we packed our empty baskets into the car and drove home with frowns on our faces. But this time, this mushroom hunt, we hit the jackpot! We were hunting for two kinds of mushrooms; golden chanterelles and yellow stemmed chanterelles or “trumpet mushrooms” (which are otherwise quite pricey in the markets). There were so many mushrooms everywhere it was amazing! I took pictures of pretty much every single one, ha! Many of them weren’t good for eating. They either were poisonous or had too strong of a flavor. Which was why we were only picking two kinds of mushrooms and not the twenty or so that were growing. I have provided pictures of some of the mushrooms that I saw that morning. There were honestly so many different kinds. Many of which I had never seen before. Last year at Corban University (the college I attend) there were what seemed like tons of mushrooms growing wild around the campus. I was indeed mistaken! If there we tons growing at Corban then there were trillions growing in this little wood in Sweden. I found that some of the mushrooms that were growing at Corban were also growing in Sweden. It is always interesting to find similarities between where you are and home. 

When we got back Titi (Christina, Benkt’s wife) had made us lunch. It was a sort of cheese pie, similar to a quiche. Oh my goodness, it was amazing! I hope that she doesn’t forget to send me the recipe. Every meal that I had at the house was prepared by Titi and Geta (Christina’s older sister). And every meal was so so so delicious! Benkt is lucky to have such a wife! The table was always set and the food was arranged and garnished for us when we came to the table. Thinking back on it I will always smile. I love food, what can I say.

Later that day Benkt, Johan, Cissi and I went to visit Skokloster Castle. On the same plot of land as the castle was another smaller building titled the “white castle.” There Carl Gustav was born. There was also a church that dated back to the 13th century. It was originally Catholic, but during the Reformation this church, along with all of Sweden became Protestant. There was an orchard growing between the church and the castle. We picked some apples and ate them while walking around the outside of the castle. It was the best apple I think I have ever had! The day we were there was the last day that Skokloster was open for the season and we got the last tour (Literally, our tour guide locked the castle up after we exited the door). The castle itself was never completed. It was one of Carl Gustav’s many (approximately 11) castles. Skokloster, however, was Carl’s dream castle. But the funds were never raised enough to complete it. most of the rooms were finished, except one. This room would have been the most magnificent of them all, had it been completed. The banquet hall had windows that stretched up to the high, vaulted ceilings. All to be seen by us was exposed beams that were to create these high ceilings and bare wooden floors. It is said that when the peasants (who were building the castle) heard that Carl was finally dead, they dropped what they were doing and went home. When Carl died he specifically wrote in his will that his collection and the castle never be taken away. So today we can all enjoy the 5,000 pieces that are left of Carl’s castle. Among his collection 3,000 of the 5,000 Items can be found in one room: the Armory. Carl Gustav was a man of war. He loved to fight, plunder and collect “war booty” as our guide said. His armory was amazing. There were so many beautiful guns from different countries. He had at one time 5 ivory pistols, but two of them were missing. Mystery that… Carl also had many show guns, for example he had one of the first had held “machine guns” which was really a nine barreled gun that you had to be a member of the strength team to pick up and actually aim at an opponent. He had riffles that were 9 feet long (for what reason, I have none), countless other riffles and pistols ornately decorated with mother of pearl, cross bows, spears, swords, knives and daggers. Among the sword in the collection I saw the very sword that Carl was holding in his most famous portrait. Prague likes to claim that 5% of the collection is all stolen, but it was recorded that it was either won in battle, given to, or purchased by Carl Gustav. I could go on for days about this castle! But I wont. SO moving on…

We got back home and had an amazing home cooked meal by Titi (Christina, Benkt’s wife). The dish was fish, in a cream sauce with mushrooms, topped with lemon. If you aren’t a fish person like my little brother (he wont touch a chocolate cake if you tell him that it was sitting next the leftover fish in the fridge) then you will still love this dish! I was so good. And for every meal, I had seconds. Titi would ask “would you like some more, please,” and how could you say no? 

That night after dinner I was introduced to one of the funniest shows I have seen in a long time. It was John Cleese’s “Fawlty Towers.” If you have never heard of this show and you love Monty Python style comedy, you should check it out. It is one of Benkt’s favorites and I can see why. After an episode would finish he would look over at me and say, “One more?” and I would nod my head happily. Soon I was looking over at him and asking the same question. 

The next day (the 27th) Benkt and I went to Stockholm. We walked around in the windy city (I in a dress, naturally) and he told me a little bit of the city’s history. He had also set up a tour with a someone who worked in the Parliament. We walked around in the government buildings and I was able to see many places where the king and queen would and do come for Parliament meetings. And I sat in the Prime minister of Sweden’s chair! Here in the picture is proof. It was pretty comfy. We had lunch at the Parliament, they were serving moose, so I had to try it. It tasted like a cow and a goat had a baby and I was eating it. Delicious. Sorry majestic moose, but you taste too good. 

After the tour Benkt and I went to the Stockholm Cathedral where the Crown Princess and her husband were married in June of this year. It was a beautiful cathedral made primarily out of brick (most older buildings in Sweden are, rather than the half timbered buildings of Germany). In it there were places for all to sit and separate places for royalty. Their seats were underneath a giant sculpture of a crown that was held by flying seraphs. It was interesting to see where royalty still sits today. Among other interesting things in the Cathedral there was a painting that caught my eye. The painting was of a rare phenomenon that occurred centuries ago when multiple rings were formed in the sky. The people of the land thought that it was a sign from God and rather than be in awe, they grew very afraid and fled to the churches so that they could pray. 

Bengt took me from the church over towards the Castle. On the way there I spotted an old telephone kiosk. So naturally I had to have a picture of me inside it. 

We went to see the castle and made it just in time to see the changing of the guard, yes just like England, accept these guards were much more responsive. If you talked to them you would get a response. They were very friendly (probably because they didn’t have to were those silly hats like the English do). After we watched the changing of the guard, we continued walking around in Stockholm and made our way into the more shopping oriented part of the city. Bengt took me to “NK” which is the largest store in all of Scandinavia. It can be compared to Harrods in England or Macy’s in New York. It is possible that it was bigger. We spent about an hour going up and down the escalators to the basement and to the top floor trying to find a few things that Bengt needed. My favorite part about NK was that it had its very own chocolate store! I was in love! Bengt bought some of their famous mint truffles for us to eat when we got back to the house.  

We left Stockholm and came home to an amazing meal, I was a happy camper indeed. It was ham (my favorite) in a cream sauce with tomatoes. Served with steamed veggies and a special way of doing potatoes. They were pressed, not mashed, but pressed as though through a garlic press. Every evening meal was accompanied by lively chatter about the things that happened that day. Everyone would get excited and the volume would increase, it reminded me of home. 

Sweden in a land were Vikings would roam. Years ago much of the land was covered in water and ice. As the water slowly melted throughout time and the glaciers receded they formed ridges. On higher points of land natives and I like to think Vikings as well would put up standing stones. These stones gave a message that someone important died here, there was a battle fought there, or that something important happened at this spot. Today (the 28th) Bengt took me around to see a few of these standing stones. On these stone there would be carved an ancient message and also there would most of the time be a Celtic cross. We found one standing stone that did not have a cross. That told us that it was before Christianity had spread to that part of the land (older than dirt!). The carved parts of the stone were painted with the common red of Sweden. The color comes as an oxide out of the iron and copper that are mined from the lands. 

Little did I know that this whole time Bengt was secretly taking me to a ranch were I would ride an Icelandic horse! I love riding horses! Why? Because I’m a girl. Every day we would drive through the country side and go by Sweden’s second largest ranch. It seemed like every one in Sweden owned a horse and it was driving me crazy.

But when we pulled into “Stall Tängby” I was overcome with happiness. I finally put together why Bengt said for me to make sure that I dressed warm and brought my winter coat. The intriguing thing about Icelandic horses is that once they leave Iceland they can’t go back, they are not allowed. Iceland is very annal about their horses. They don’t want to risk their horses getting diseases so they wont let an immigrant Icelandic horse step a hoof on the soil of Iceland. They go as far as not even letting a saddle that was on an Icelandic horse anywhere but Iceland touch an Icelandic horse in the native land. Confused? Good. But what makes an Icelandic horse so darn special you ask? (A little more horse talk here then we will be done.) Horses generally have 4 “gears,” or gaits in horse talk; the walk, the trot, the canter and the gallop. But with the Icelandic horse you have 5. In between the walk and the trot there is the “Tölt.” In the tölt the horse always has one or three hooves touching the ground. Therefore the person in the saddle gets a smoother ride (unlike the uncomfortable bouncing of a trot). One final fact about Icelandic horses is is that they have never seen forests before. Iceland doesn’t have forests and the horses are used to being able to see everywhere without a mass of trees standing in the way. You must train an Icelandic horse to not be afraid of forests. Mystery that… We rode around for about two hours and I was able to experiment with the tült and canter through the woods. I was like a child on Christmas morning. (Ok, I was like myself on Christmas morning.) 

 Later that day Bengt showed me the house where my great-grandfather lived. It was a soldier’s house (these are all over in Sweden), therefore it was very tiny. These army houses were assigned by the King for each company. I did not get to go inside this house, because it was now someone’s home. We tried to ask permission, but whoever they were, they were not at home. We drove into Uppsala and I was shown around the city. We drove through parts of the University and Bengt  showed me were the Swedish graduation tradition of white hats takes place. But the main place that we went to Uppsala to see was the Uppsala Cathedral where hours before the King and Queen were. 

Inside this Cathedral lies the bones of King Gustaf I, his wife and the ashes of St. Erik (a Swedish Archbishop who was very important during the Reformation). We left the church and went to Gustaf I’s castle up on the hill where four canons were pointed at the church. This was originally ordered to be done by Gustaf I because he thought that since he was king, there should be no other higher rule, not even God. He was all for the separation of church and state. Another thing that was up on this hill besides the palace and a bunch of canons facing the church, was a bell tower.  This is the highest point in the city of Uppsala and from here you were able to see the entire city. The firemen would stand up at the bell tower and watch for fires. Every night at eight o’clock the fire marshall was to ring this bell and say, “It is eight o’clock and all is well.” Unless there was a fire of course. 

 When we got back to the summer house the table was set. Dinner was chicken thighs and legs. They were served with sliced potatoes (seasoned with salt and cumin spice), freshly picked mushrooms, and a Greek salad. Naturally I had seconds of the entire plate. This was my favorite meal that I had in Sweden, I think. It was just so stinkin’ good!

After dinner I made a surprise for both of my parents that they will and better love. I can’t tell you all for fear that they are reading this. Sorry.

Today (the 29th) we went to the city of Enköping (pronounced in-sure-ping) and had linch with the Mayor at the First Hotel. Anna was a very lovely woman and I could see her genuine interest in the matters of the town. Though most of the conversing at the table was in Swedish, you could just tell. After lunch I was given a tour of the fire station if Enköping which was very nice. 

On the way home we stopped at a medieval church in the woods. This church was one of about 40 churches that was painted on the interior by the artist Albertos Pector (spelling?). He painted these churches in the 10th or 11th cent. He did this because the peasants (who were the main comers of country churches) weren’t educated as the priests were. And the language of the church was Latin. Therefore no one could understand what the priests were ever saying.  Pector knew this and painted Biblical stories and scenes on the ceilings of churches so that the peasants could understand the stories of the Bible. The most famous of the paintings is not even a story from the Bible, it is actually the artists depiction of life. To the right you can see the painting. What it is saying is that you begin life and there is much music as you rise to the top or the prime of your life, but then death always pulls you down under and there your body lies. Many of these paintings were covered up during the Reformation with white paint because they were thought to distract the people from God. But through time they were rediscovered and uncovered using white bread to bring out the color. Most of the paintings came back to life, but there were some that would be lost forever.   That night for dinner we had fresh uncooked Salmon (a Swedish specialty) topped with sliced lemon, and served with boiled potatoes. On our dishes to begin were three open faced sandwiches, a small meal, but very delicious and filling nonetheless. 

Today (the 30th) was sadly, my last full day in Sweden. we went back to Enköping and I spent the morning with Cissi and her preschool class. They were all so adorable and so blonde! You know the Stereotype that everyone in Sweden is tall and blonde? It is not a stereotype! Out of the 40 or so kids that I saw running around the grounds of the preschool, I can only remember 5 that weren’t blonde! Crazy! One was a little Asian boy, another was a red head, another had dark skin (I think his parents were from Romania), and the two others just had brown hair. But 5 out of 40, it was the weirdest thing! I ate lunch with Cissi’s group of kids. We had spaghetti and a meat sauce with veggies and cabbage salad. They children were putting ketchup on their spaghetti and meat sauce. Am I missing something? Do Americans do that? I have never done that before.

 Later that day I went to Cissi’s apartment for a while and then we went shopping around Enköping. We had a great time looking at the small shops around the town. That night the town was having a special just for women, called “Ladies Night.” Certain stores had discounts on jewelry and other things, just for women. It was nice. We had dinner at the “WhiteElephant” which was a Thai restaurant. We were joined by Cissi’s best friend Anton and family friend Magnus. I was supposed to meet his little sister, Louise Katarina, but she got a concussion on her way to school that day. We missed her at dinner. Hopefully I will meet her some day, she is Titi’s goddaughter.

After dinner I went to a local school of music and I got to play the stand up Bass with the group that was practicing. It was so much fun! I haven’t gotten to play the Bass in over 5 months. It felt great to get rid of a small bit of rust. We played an traditional Swedish folk song, a minuet, an Air, and a piece from “Fame.” 

During my stay in Sweden I got to do many of my favorite things (besides worshipping God), I got to ride horses, play the Bass and eat amazing food with amazing people. Thank you so much Bangt, Titi, Geta, and Cissi for your hospitality and Johan, Anton and Magnus for your company. I will see you all again some day, I promise! 

Sept. 23, 2010

Today after class we went on a boating tour down the Danube River. As we watched the land crawl by we were given bits of information from the captain of the boat. We boated all the way over to the “Pagan Palace” or Walhalla built by King Ludwig I. This palace, built in the Greek style in the 1800s was built to look like a Greek Temple, imagine that. Inside this beautiful palace rests the bests of famous Germans throughout the years. Among the many are Beethoven, Mozart, Goethe, and Einstein. Years ago the state would fund for a bust to be made, but nowadays it is private funding that covers this. One bust cost approximately 2,000-3,000 dollars. And a bust has to meet the requirements to have a bust. It must be “worthy” enough. One of the requirements would be that they must be German speaking. So every 5 years they erect a new bust. Therefore there are a lot of busts in this palace! There are 130 to be exact. The architecture of this palace was stunning, and so out of place in Germany. I loved it.   

Sept 20, 2010

We packed our bags and kissed Weimar goodbye this morning and were on the road again.  Before we reached Regensburg, Herr Orr had us take a drive though a charming little town close to Amburg named Pottenstein. This town had a creak going through the middle of it. It went along side the road, bridges went over it, it flowed and flowed. The water was so clear and there was an abundance of life in and around the water. Thinking back on it, I cannot help but think about Christ. He is live a river of fresh water. He should be running throughout your life as this creak did in the town in Pottenstein. Through Christ you will have life in abundance and everything will be as  clear as the water. The peaceful sound of the flowing water is like the peace that Christ brings.  

We stopped and looked at the water, but Jerry told us to turn around and look. Turning around, we were surprised with an amazing view. Back behind the houses in front of us was a large estate that seemed to be built out of the cliff. The rock seemed to be one with the house. I wonder when the house was built. It looked as old as the rock cliff it was build on. It was so beautiful. You can see the house to the left here. Notice that there are windows along the part of the building with arches. I wonder what it’s like in there… Mystery that… 

We continued on our journey home but made one final stop. We stopped at a little place along the main road that had the most interesting form of ride. It was a flume, bobsled like thing. There were two tracks, one that didn’t have a seat belt and one that did. The slower track and the faster track. But it was said that the slower track felt faster. Naturally we had to all go on, well most of us did anyway. And naturally we all had to go on the track that was said to feel faster. And naturally I had to try them both. That ride as insane and I’m not even sure it was legal. It’s a miracle that I am still alive! Nah, it’s probably super safe. But it was way too fun to be all that safe.  Above was a picture of the track. It went through a little wood and all around and over a small hill. The faster track with the seatbelt was the track that has the net for extra protection. Both tracks were different designs. The slower track was like going down a very long mettle slide. It was also very much like bobsledding. But personally I have never bobsledded. The second and faster track with the safety precautions was designed more like a roller coaster. They were both a lot of fun. If you ever get the chance, you should do it!

Sept. 19, 2010

I have just come back from quite the amazing organ concert at the Weimarer Orgelsommer 2010 Musik und Wort at the Stadkirche St. Peter and Paul. Sitting next to Dr. Anderson and Orr, we the three of us took in the magnificent organ music. Christine Lux gave everyone a perfect display of her talent as she played the keys up and down as if she were simply breathing. Sitting there, it was so peaceful as I was taking it all in. God was surely there listening with us all.

It was earlier today that we attended the same church for their 10 o’clock service.  Us students could not understand what was happening seeing as it was a German church and the service was in their native tongue. It probably seemed rather comical the way we all played telephone when Kelly of Herr Orr would pass along Reader’s Digest translations of what was being said. The message was that of church music and its importance. It was lovely because every so often the organist would play a piece and she was occasionally accompanied by the church choir. The congregation sang a canon  as we tried helplessly to sing in German. The service was closed with an Organ and orchestra piece by Bach. It was beautiful. When the service was over we had some free time and headed back to the Jegendherberge for some lunch and after lunch we were off to Buchenwald. 

Buchenwald. It was the largest concentration camp ever built. More human beings were brought through this camp than any other camp on the continent. Dietrich Bonhoeffer was in Buchenwald for 2 months before he was hanged at Flossenburg. We walked around the huge lot of land that was empty in structure, but not in spirit. I stood there with the breeze whizzing past my face and shut my eyes. I tried to imagine how life, or rather death was here during this establishments prime. I could feel the hurt of history’s past. The thousands of innocent and falsely accused souls. The families that were split forever, only to be joined again in Heaven. After spending a few hours at the camp we headed out to make one final stop at the Buchenwald Memorial. Having passed it on the way into the camp, I personally didn’t think that it was going to be as massive as it truly was. Going down a series of endless steps, it consisted of a large clock tower (which is what most people see driving in to the camp), a memorial statue, flagpoles and torch basins for each country that was imprisoned in Buchenwald, a series of plaques depicting the cruelty and humanity that occurred, and three gaping holes in the earth. Herr Orr, Doctor Anderson and I discussed what the significance of the holes could be. We came to the conclusion that it was a kind of metaphor. The world will never be the same because of what happened. There are holes in the earth and holes in the hearts of many. It has left its mark on history. Much more than three ditches. We left Buchenwald with much more appreciation and knowledge than we had had earlier that very same day. Mystery that… Later that night at the Jegendherberge we had the amazing privilege of listening to the manager of the youth hostel, Frau Fredrick, tell us about the tearing down Berlin Wall and her personal experiences living in East Germany.  

We all sat around in the mess hall, warm cups of tea in our cold hands, listening to her speak in German. Kelly would then translate her words spoken into English so that we could follow. She lived under communism for most of her life and was taught that the Russians were the ones who freed everyone from the concentration camps. She was taught that America was the enemy and that they couldn’t be trusted. No one was even allowed to watch American news or shows on TV. You were able to get a car… But you had to get in the 15 year waiting list for one. Mystery that… 

Frau Fredrick didn’t ever complain to us about living under communism, no she did the opposite. She said that living under communism felt safe. Everyone had jobs, there wasn’t a lot of money, but everyone got by. There was a sense of security. One sad thing that she did tell us about was that her brother was on the other side of the wall. She never really knew him because he was so young and they were separated for so long. What was so sad about it was that it didn’t seem like she ever grew close to him. They missed a very important childhood together and it threw them off forever. She didn’t say all of this, but she spoke about him in a tone that was so distant that it was obvious. 

At first she didn’t believe it, when she heard that they were tearing the Berlin Wall down. She couldn’t take it seriously the first time, but then she kept hearing it on the radio and knew it was really happening. When the radio announced that the borders were open she ran to the train station as fast as humanly possible and caught one of the first trains into west Germany. She had always wanted to see it and was amazed by all of the differences. People would go to West Germany to buy groceries and then come back to East Germany were they lived. There was so much more to offer in West Germany and everything was offered at an affordable price. 

She closed with a thought that was very scary. She said that she knew she was living under communism, but how did we know that we weren’t. There are traffic cameras on every traffic light, there are cameras in most public places, calls are traced, if you check out certain books at the library you will be tracked. America is being watched. Do we really have the freedom that we think we do?

Sept. 18, 2010

The main event today, besides the amazing bratwurst we had for lunch and from the street, was the Goethe museum. Goethe is a huge part of German history. Besides being a major poet who wrote “Faust” he is also responsible for bringing many people to Weimar. In his house, which is now a museum, we wandered the corridors each clutching an ipod in our hands, listening to a recording of a British man tell us the history of the house we were slowly touring. The most amazing thing out of the entire museum, in my humble opinion, was Goethe’s library. Thousands and thousands of books! There is no doubt that he had read all of them. The fact was that observers could only see the front corner of the room. There was much more to be seen, but it was blocked by an iron gate. I was amazed that there still were many of the books there and not fake “stand ins” so to say. I wished that I could be allowed in there, Goethe’s library. I would have loved to finger through his books and look at the notes he may have left in the margins of his own copy of the countless works that he had collected. That would be amazing. (Above is a picture of a monumental statue of Schiller and Goethe).

After the museum we toured downtown Weimar. So many amazing and famous historical figures have been to Weimar! No wonder that it is called the “Athens” of Germany. Hans Christian Anderson was in Weimar for a time. Maybe in his visit he thought up some ideas for the Little Mermaid or the Little Matchbox Girl. Maybe not. Bach was in Weimar for a few years. To the left is a picture of me with a bust of Bach himself. Across the street was a plaque of where the house he staid at once stood. I wonder what songs he composed while he was there. It felt amazing to be somewhere where he himself once stood, long ago. We continued walking and were shown the Liszt Music School and where an old Gestapo prison used to stand. To the right is a picture of our group, including Doctor Anderson, outside of the prison memorial. Before it was a prison it was the castle’s stables. In the time of WWII however, the Gestapo's used it as a gathering place for Thuringian Jews before they sent them to concentration camps. Usually the Jews  were sent to Buchenwald. After the war the area was a county court prison. 

But within the last 15 years it was all demolished and is now a memorial for all to see and read about. Weimar was also a major palce during the Third Reich and had it’s own Parade grounds where Nazi Soldiers once marched by saluting Hitler while he stood in front of the Zum Schwarzen Bären. The Zum Schwarzen Bären or “Black Bear Inn” in English, is the oldest pub and restaurant in Weimar, it was established in 1540. No doubt that Bach himself ate there with friends. Here to the left is the Pub. Further down the road just to the left of the pub is the “Hotel Elephant” which has a balcony with memorial statues of two figures who once stood there during the parade of Hitler’s Third Reich.

Sept. 17, 2010

Today our group all packed a lunch for the road and hopped in to our modes of transport. We were headed to the historical city of Weimar. On our way we stopped at Aldi and what did I get? You probably guessed it… More chocolate. Doctor Anderson asked if there was going to be a need for an intervention and it was very possible that an intervention would be needed.

After hours of rocking out to Disney music in the car, we had finally arrived in Weimar. Our first stop was the final living and death place of Fredric Nietzche, the Nietzche Archiv. No pictures were allowed to be taken… I confess I took one picture… Here it is to the right. The woman in charge was following us all very closely after that. 

This house and museum was also an apartment for students at a nearby university. The main floor was the museum, but the room where Nietzche himself died was upstairs and roped off. Upstairs was where the students lived. I thought it very curious that this museum having such strict rules (you couldn’t even keep a guide paper) would allow for students to be living upstairs where the man died and wouldn’t even allow for museum goers to see it! Mystery that!

Sept. 13, 2010

Walking through Regensburg we expanded our knowledge of the city. Herr Orr took us to many different spots in the city of which were built by the Romans back when they occupied the area. They used Regensburg as a fortress town and a barricade. In 179 A.D. the Romans built a wall spanning across the land. The territory is now and has been known for quite some time as the town of Regensburg. The town keeps discovering that there is traces of there ancient history and Roman building underneath the city and behind some of the plaster molds that have been placed on the buildings throughout the years. It’s almost like unearthing a time capsule, to find that there has been a nearly 3,000 year old wall on your apartment underneath all that plaster. This wall included a grand archway of which we all went through to enter into a courtyard. Herr Orr shared to us information about the Cathedral because you can see a very good view of it from where we were standing. 

After that he led us over to a fountain that was in this little courtyard. The fountain was of a Franciscan monk who was feeding the geese. He had a jolly look on his face and an expression that said, “I have not a care in the world.” Herr Orr asked me to go around and peak at the other side and to tell the group what I saw. To my surprise, the back of the monk reveals a fox which is tearing its way out from behind his robes. In it’s mouth is a plump goose. I felt almost insulted because I was so deceived. But what did this mean? What was the significance of the fox tearing out of the monks backside? Mystery that… Mystery indeed.

Herr Orr sharred with us some of the famous people that have visited oand lived in

Regensburg through history. People such as; 

Goethe, Kepler and Schindler whose house sign you can see in the picture to the left. We continued on our tour and entered into another beautiful church  that we were told had a comical mistake somewhere in the artwork. We looked and looked with little hope that we would find anything. Herr Orr pointed out to us when we all finally gave up, that there was a monk in one of the windows a the back of the church. Seeing him, I was frightened and jumped out of shock. He looked so real! You can see him here in this picture to the right. He is looking down over organ across the balcony to the pews and front of the ornate church. Maybe as a guardian who knows… Mystery that…

Sept. 12, 2010

        Right now, at this very moment, I am sitting on a train to Stuttgart, Germany eating a s’mores granola bar (which is in no way as good as the chocolate Croissant that I just finished eating from the Paris Est train station). Oh! to be back on the train! I do not remember ever feeling such a feeling relief! It is very similar to the feeling of finishing a very long and important test and knowing that you did well on it. All I want now is some well deserved sleep. 

Upon arrival at the train station on Friday night I had this feeling that I might not even make it back to Germany. But, hallelujah, here I am.  I met my friends, Sara and Russell Patrick at the train station around 11:10 p.m. I didn’t think to plan out a route or anything for getting to my hostel from the station. But they planned one for me! They even bought me tickets for the metro! I am very blessed that I have friends that would do this for me! Going from a small city such as Regensburg to a big city such as Paris was quite a shock. I had to make sure that I was constantly alert of all my surroundings. After we all went through the Metro to the outskirts of town to where my “beloved” hostel was, Sara and Russell went on their way to their own hotel. The amount of anxiety that rushed over me, now realizing that I was alone in a foreign country, was immense. That feeling mixed with the heat of the city and caused my heart to race and my blood to boil, resulting in a red face. As I gave my passport to the man at the counter of the hostel (for safety and for collateral because I was to pay in the morning) I felt as though I was selling my soul to the Devil! This place gave me the creeps! It didn’t help that as I walked into my room and turned on the light I saw cockroaches flee and scatter into the darkness. Or that the room was about 90 degrees hot. Or that my roommate wanted to kill me the moment I turned the light on. Or that I was worrying about my laptop and camera which were downstairs 6 floors from me in a locker that, if someone really wanted to, they could open. But I would rather it be down there than risk one of my two roommates (the second of which came later around 3 in the morning) taking it in my sleep.

That night, I slept in sweatpants and a long sleeve T-shirt. Not because it was cold, no I was sweating from all the heat, but because I wanted as little of me to touch any part of the bed I was sleeping in. Sleep is an overstatement… I wouldn’t say that I even slept. Every hour or two I would realize that I was just lying there waiting for the morning, praying that God would keep me safe. My pepper spray was my new best friend. 

When morning finally arrived, I took a shower as quickly as humanly possible because it was freezing, got dressed and ready to go, and went down 6 floors to make sure that my things were all there in the locker. They were, thank goodness. So I switched out my luggage for my camera bag and headed up to breakfast. I had an odd tasting applesauce, which wasn’t bad, some bread, and some water. Then I was on the road. The plane for the day: Versailles! I met Sara and Russell at the Metro stop “Invalids” and there we hoped on the next metro to go to Versailles. 

    My hope in Paris, as always, was restored as we approached to brilliant golden gates of the Palace. Among the many differences between Germany and France, architecture is one that I’ll have to side with France on. Germany is quaint and charming. France, however, is extravagant! The splendor of not only inside, but also the outside of Versailles; the gardens, the landscape, the fountains, the canal, were breathtaking. 

I had no idea the size and grandeur of the palaces property until I looked on a map, no until I walked the distance from the main palace to Queens Estate. We wandered through the maze of fountains for hours looking at all the detail that was given to each different fountain. We also spent many minutes sitting and resting. It was very tiring to walk so much. We discovered that Versailles has numerous cats that roam around in the mazes and beg people for food. They all looked very well fed. 

When we made our way over to Marie-Antoinette’s Estate and Trianon Palaces we discovered Marie-Antoinette's very own world that had been constructed for her when she was queen. My favorite was “the Queen’s Hamlet” which was a small village she had designed because she liked the idea of a “simple life.” The Hamlet was made up of thatch roof Tutor houses, gardens (flower and vegetable), a large pond, and the Marlborough Tower. This tower was named after the Duke of Marlborough who was an English general. He died in 1722 and a song was about him became very popular and was made known at Court by the Dauphin’s nurse. The song popularity caused the naming of this tower to be after the song. The tower was the first construction in the Queen’s Hamlet in the year 1783. The irony settled in while strolled around the gardens and fixtures… What a simple life this was. When Russell and I entered into a theater that was on one of the walking trails we walked inside and were blown away by the display of “simple” gold embellishing and the thick velvet curtains and painted ceilings of this small “lowly” theater that met the approval of the Queen’s idea of a “simple life.”

After we exhausted our stay at the Queen’s Estate we made our way back to the fountains to catch the last display of the fountains (because the fountains are only turned on twice daily and only on weekends). We saw each beautifully built fountain come to life. Who knew that you could add so much beauty and detail with just a few tons of water!? After our one last stroll throughout the fountain filled maze and with a short visit to the git store for me, we left Versailles and took the same metro back to the district in Paris where the Patrick’s were staying. We had dinner at a little restaurant at which I ordered some amazing pasta in a white sauce with little pieces of gorgonzola cheese and pear! Who would have thought that pear would taste so good with pasta and cheese!? And for dessert.. I took five minutes to choose between tiramisu and creme brulé.. But in the end I chose the later. I wasn’t disappointed! I lust don’t understand as to why it is so difficult in America to make a good creme brulé! It’s a cryin’ shame I tell you! After dinner the Patrick’s took me to their hotel. It was so cute! Oh how I wish that I could have slept on the floor in their room as to be safe from the youth hostel in the Clichy district, or the equivalent to the “Red Light” district in Amsterdam. All right, I am exaggerating, but not by much. There at the hotel we planned my “escape route” back to Germany. Then I was off to the hostel… I frown just thinking about that place.  

I had one more night in that in the “Paris Clichy” youth hostel, of which I dubbed the “Hellhole,” and planned to wake early and take a shower before the sun even rose. It appeared that tonight I was the only person occupying the room. However, during the night I was awakened by a new roommate; a 17 year old French girl who was terrified of the cockroaches that were in the room. She wanted me to get out of bed to see what she was fussing about. I did. We soon engaged in conversation, broken English on both parts, hers because she was French and mine because it was 3 in the morning. Yet we understood each other just as well. We discussed her fear of not just bugs, but her distaste for well... How shall I put it... Every animal on the planet. She especially hated donkeys. Mystery that. We then talked about why we were visiting Paris. I told her I was visiting friends and that I had just gone to Versailles the previous day and she told me that she was here to surprise her boyfriend. She was a very nice girl whom I felt much better about being my roommate. The conversation slowed and eventually she got the hint that I needed some rest. In the morning I beat the sun and took a shower as fast as lightning itself. I got ready for my journey and began my escape back to the peaceful, orderly, and clean Germany.

On the last train (which was local) back to Regensburg I sat next to woman who headed back home to Hoff. She had just spent the weekend in Munich. We talked about Obama and social insurance. A little politics and opinions. She got fired up when talking about Germany’s social insurance and said that it needed to be reviewed so that things could be changed and work with these new times. She said that they need to be modernized, but that the system works very well for Germany. She thought very strongly that America should adopt it for their system. 

       When I got back I did some reading and had dinner. After we went to a weekend Carnival. One thing I noticed was that they had plants for prizes in some booths. 

They would never do that in the US… Mystery that.

Sept. 10, 2010

At this very moment I am on a train headed to Frankfurt. There I will make a connection to Paris for the weekend. I am meeting Sara and Russell Patrick there at the  station… Well that is my hope of course. We are planning on going to Versailles tomorrow at 9 in the morning. I am so very excited. I have had the opportunity to go there before, but there was a transportation strike inhabiting many people (including the group I was a part of, from going. I was very upset, but what was I to do. I get to go now and I feel very blessed about it. Especially to get to do it with Sara and Russell. It is going to be so much fun! I am booked for two nights at a Youth Hostel named Paris Clichy. I hope it’s a safe and clean place. I also have no idea if it’s close to where the Patricks are staying. But no matter. I can always take the underground, or a bus. I am hoping to learn from this weekend how to get around on my own in a country where I have no idea how to speak the native language. But it’s France, I am sure that I will find a few people who can speak English if I really need help… I have a feeling that I might.

Sept.9 2010

We were reminded today the significance of the lettering on the German license plate. They begin with a letter or two that specify which city the car is from. It is similar to  the American license plate that has the state name up on top of the plate. We began to discuss the book “Germany: Unraveling an Enigma” in class today. We talked about Germany’s enigmas and it made me think of what a few of America’s enigmas would look like. How could a nation that was so ready to help stop the holocaust make legal the killing of unborn life in the mother’s womb? How could a nation of freedom not allow prayer in public schools? If I thought about it long enough, the list would be endless. 

At dinner I sat at a table with a man by the name of Volkshart Reik. Hannah D. began a conversation with him and Kelley translated for us. We found out that he was from Northern Germany, which I could notice in the way he spoke. His dialect was different than what I have been hearing here on my stay. He shared that his wife of 45 years had passed away 6 months ago. Something that they would always do together was go Square Dancing. This was the first time sense she dead that he had gone on a trip to go line dancing without her. He described the outfit that he would wear and by what I could tell, he went all out whenever he went square dancing. He even said that he had a real gun and holster for the outfit. But only on a rare occasion would he be able to wear that. 

Sept. 8, 2010

Again, I was amazed this morning that the hot water never depleted in my shower. I am so thankful for there to be hot water in this establishment! I have been to so many places where the hot water just never lasts. Small blessing, I will say again.

At 9 o’clock we traveled to what is known as one of the most romanic cities in Germany; Rothenburg. In a protected city that looks remarkably like a hand pointing downward, we walked along the rim of the ancient wall and saw a spectacular view of the outer limits of the city. It was foggy, but you could still see the vista. 

Once we followed a street performing flutist into the city I noticed for the first time, a rather unkept car. To an uneducated American eye, this wouldn’t have been curious. But  in my readings of “Germany: Unraveling and Enigma” Greg Nees writes about the pristine conditions that Germans keep their cars in. To have a chip in the paint would be a disgrace. The car wasn’t in too bad of a condition, but in comparison with the millions of other cars that I have already seen here, it was. There was dirt on the roof and moss growing in the window cracks. The hood of the car was chipped and a tad bit rusty. It made me wonder the age of the cars owner, or rather the personality of the owner. If indeed they were a younger, more liberal thinking German that would make sense. If indeed it was an American owner... Now that would make al the sense in the world, sadly enough. Here is a picture of the car:

You can see a little bit of the moss in the window cracks. But the front of the car was the worst part.